The Angel

The Angel

Annie Shi's Chinatown

Where the Lei owner frequents before and after work + LINKS

Feb 28, 2026
∙ Paid

My Neighborhood is a Saturday column that serves as an alternative to Plugs. It’s where someone of note (with great taste) shares their five go-to spots in the neighborhood where they live or work. My Neighborhood is for paid subscribers of The Angel only; upgrade your subscription for all-access!

#2 is Annie Shi, the restaurateur behind the delightful Chinatown wine bar Lei, in addition to SoHo’s beloved King, Rock Center’s Jupiter, and the soon-to-open seafood-focused pub, Dean’s. Annie is also an award-winning beverage director, having recently been named the Michelin Guide’s Northeast Cities Sommelier of the Year. Lei, which opened last summer, is her most personal project yet; it’s where her Chinese background and her deep knowledge of European wine are on full display, in brilliant harmony. A native New Yorker from Queens who grew up eating and shopping in Flushing and Chinatown, she was already well-positioned when she became a business owner on historic Doyers Street—and now she’s more tapped in than ever. Here’s Annie with her five go-to Chinatown restaurants, food shops, and more.


Mee Sum Cafe

Mee Sum is one of the last old-school coffee shops in Chinatown serving breakfast and lunch. The Moy family has owned it for five decades and is worthy of regular patronage. When we were still in construction at Lei, we bought family meal from Mee Sum at least once a week. My favorites are the zhong zi (sticky rice studded with salted duck egg yolk and pork belly, wrapped and steamed in bamboo leaves), and salted chicken over rice. Cash only!

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