Five spicy soups for spicy weather
Plus porridge bread, the new Anthony Bourdain biopic, and more
Greetings, angels!
We’ve got some hot, hot heat in the forecast, for which the only cure is a giant, steaming bowl of spicy-ass soup. You heard me. More on that in a minute, but first, a few bits and bobs:
Food on Film: I was invited to an early screening of the new A24-produced Anthony Bourdain biopic Tony (out August 7) last week. I was initially hesitant, but the film was made with the full cooperation of Bourdain’s estate, which took some of the ick factor out for me. As for the movie itself, it’s a romp: director Matt Johnson (Blackberry) wisely narrows his focus to a single summer in 1976, when a cocky college-era Bourdain spends a pivotal summer at a chaotic seafood restaurant in Provincetown, Mass (a.k.a. the first chapter of Kitchen Confidential). It’s fundamentally a popcorn flick, anchored by strong performances by Dominic Sessa (The Holdovers), Leo Woodall, and a delightfully silver-tipped Antonio Banderas. IMO, it’s smart (and respectful) to zero in on a contained time period, rather than trying to capture the entire life of a man beloved by millions. I don’t think it will win any Oscars, but Tony is a fun way to spend 90 air-conditioned minutes during the dog days.
A Good Loaf: I have nothing but respect for a carb that contains another form of carb, and thus, have been chasing the city’s finest porridge breads. Tartine’s moist oat-infused loaf, which you can find at L.A. Grocery and Whole Foods in addition to the bakery itself, is the standard-bearer for a reason. But at Santa Monica national treasure Petitgrain Boulangerie, best known for their laminated pastries, owner Clémence de Lutz has been selling an exceptional wild rice-enhanced sourdough porridge loaf in recent weeks (and is gearing up for an expansion that may involve more breads—more on this soon). Two Rose bakery is always changing the menu, but I was lucky to snag a sweet corn-and-honey cornmeal Pullman before it sold out recently and was blown away. (I also saw owner David Wilcox tease via IG that he’s testing a wild rice loaf inspired by Petitgrain’s!) I’ve yet to try Jyan Isaac’s multigrain version, but it’s very much on my radar, and I’m curious if you know of others worth seeking out.
Not only does eating spicy food in spicy weather make you feel like a tough guy, it’s also a scientifically legit method for cooling your body down (TLDR: hot foods make you sweat, which regulates your body’s internal temperature). And as a certified all-seasons soup freak, I feel qualified to point you toward five of my favorite spicy soups across L.A.
