To Live and Dine in L.A.

A theory on how to do it right

“L.A. is a hard town to understand,” said the chef Jesse Furman in The Angel chat last Sunday. I posed a few questions to subscribers about L.A.’s core attributes as a dining city, how they approach eating out here, and what’s lacking. Another reader, David, agreed: “That’s what makes it fascinating... almost 25 years later, I’m still discovering the nooks and crannies in this city. The city is so dense, and vast, and spread out, with microcosms of diversity that are perfect for exploration, if you choose to... and plenty of trendy places too if that’s your thing…”

Casualness, a lack of pretension, the diversity of immigrant cuisines, an innovative pop-up culture, and a limitlessness to spontaneous adventures were also mentioned as definitive traits of the Los Angeles dining scene. “The SGV alone. It’s just a dream,” said food writer and editor Matt Rodbard. As for the downsides: the oversaturation of vibes-based restaurants (which isn’t necessarily just an L.A. thing), not enough cozy and intimate places, and laziness due to traffic. All true. 

More was said, and you can see for yourself by joining in. I surfaced these topics for conversation because I was looking for more data to develop my theory of eating well in Los Angeles. I’ve spent considerable time strategizing my dining priorities, honing my habits, and analyzing my grievances, and as a result, I can now confidently lay down a set of guidelines for living and dining in Los Angeles fruitfully. Let me know what you think in the comments. 

1. Don’t chase new openings; be discerning. It’s easy to get caught up in the discourse around new restaurants, and there will always be a pull towards being in on what’s hot. That said, new restaurants will (or rather, should) be better once they’ve had a few months to settle in and get the hang of things. Furthermore, just because a restaurant is new doesn’t mean it has to be enticing to you. Prioritize the places you already love and those you’ve been meaning to try (but aren’t brand-new), then pepper in the buzz.

2. Find one restaurant in your neighborhood that you love, and frequent it. Get to know the staff, tip well, and celebrate there. This is called being a regular, and it rocks. It doesn’t have to be a restaurant; it could be a bakery, a coffee shop, or a bar. If there isn’t one spot in your neighborhood that you love, the next neighborhood over is up for grabs, too. This is Los Angeles, after all, and we all have cars. What’s the difference between Los Feliz and Silver Lake, anyway? 

3. Most of the best places are 30 minutes away. We all know that putting in miles behind the wheel reaps rewards in L.A., culinarily speaking. You might not always have an extra hour to give to enjoy a soul-fulfilling bowl of pho or have the perfect sushi dinner, but if you live in fear of the 30-minute meal commute, you are limiting your ability to feel happiness. 

4. Go to the farmers’ market and take notice of what’s happening. Any food-respecting person living in Los Angeles must make time for the market. You’ll find the cream of the crop in Santa Monica on Wednesdays, but Hollywood Sundays are great, too. Even if you don’t like to cook, buy some strawberries and flowers, recognize that asparagus is abundant and that apricots are starting to come in, and then let those observations inform what you choose to order at restaurants. Seasonality is everything in Los Angeles, and our produce is unparalleled. Here are some cheats: subscribe to Sam Loves The Market and watch Sasha Piligian’s Instagram story on Wednesdays. 

Recently at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market: lilacs!

5. Sunday is the best day for spontaneity. Hop on your Google Maps on a Sunday, and you’ll see all blue. Go to the Westside or the Eastside or wherever is the opposite part of town. Go to the SGV. Go for a hike in Malibu, even! Avoid making plans on Sundays so that they’re left open for you to do whatever you desire, eat wherever you want, and perhaps hit the market. Mar Vista is another favorite.

6. Pop-ups are vital. They also require patience. Some of this city’s most delicious food and thrilling experiences can be found in our vibrant pop-up scene. Baby Bistro at Stir Crazy was a recent favorite of mine, and I was sad to miss Chloe Walsh at Canyon Coffee last Friday. Pop-ups allow us to be part of restaurants-in-progress, grant us access to talented chefs who mostly work privately, and bring exciting visitors from out of town for one-of-a-kind events. If you delve in, which you should, it’s crucial to remember that a pop-up is the opposite of a well-oiled machine. This isn’t Musso & Frank’s, people. Chefs and their teams are often working out of unfamiliar kitchens, and turnout is tough to predict. It could very well take an hour to get your pizza! Arrive with low expectations and an open mind. Do not come hangry.

7. The best question is not “Have you been anywhere new that’s good lately?” but instead, “Where have you been eating these days?” This goes back to rule #1. It also creates a more interesting conversation, better recommendations, and insight into who you’re talking to. People always ask me where’s new that I like, and I find it boring to answer. First of all, what even counts as new? (Étra has been open for six months now, for what it’s worth.) Second of all, the question is so limiting! Ask me the former, and I’ll say, “Not really.” Ask me the latter, and I’ll tell you Sal’s Place has great service, a great vibe, and great vongole. That Western Doma Noodles continues to be in heavy rotation, and that I recently tried their excellent kimchi pork stew. That Apollonia’s is the best salve for when I’m feeling homesick for a New York slice. And that Angelini is a new addition to my classics rotation (get the limone, duh). 

An Apollonia’s slice.