Plugs is The Angel’s recs column. On most Saturdays, you’ll get six picks—a restaurant, a bar, a shop, an ingredient, a person, and a treat—from someone in New York or Los Angeles who knows what they’re talking about, plus a selection of Angel-curated links. Plugs are for paid subscribers of The Angel only; upgrade your subscription to receive all six!
Today’s Plugs (#102) is a special double feature from the co-owners of one of my favorite local businesses: L.A. Grocery & Café. When it opened in 2024, LAGC was part of a wave of rapid development in then-newly coined Melrose Hill, which also saw the debut of restaurants like Ètra, Café Telegrama, and Little Fish. Since then, partners Theresa Ruzumna and Caitlin Sullivan, both Honey Hi alums, have established themselves as new pillars of the neighborhood, stocking the 6,000-sq. foot space with local produce, meat and seafood, pantry staples, florals, and excellent prepared foods (the tamari-glazed chicken thighs are a staple in my fridge). LACG takes responsible sourcing seriously, and especially on weeks that I miss the farmers market, I appreciate that I never have to worry about the provenance or practices behind anything I buy there. Here are Theresa and Caitlin’s Plugs:
Restaurant: Antico Nuovo
No restaurant in L.A. makes me feel more like a night out on the town than Antico Nuovo on Beverly Blvd. Chef Chad Colby’s affinity for simplicity and his commitment to craftsmanship show in every bite. However, chef Arturo Roja’s precise running of the kitchen and his warm personality are what keep me coming back time after time. The VERY professional staff, led by Rachel Grisafi, helps you melt away a long day. Her spectacular, unpublished (she doesn’t put it online to peruse) wine list is unlike any other in the city and I always feel like I learn something new when drinking wines from her list. — Ruzumna
Gloria’s Cuisine
Having a leisurely brunch with my friends and/or family makes me feel like I’ve won the lotto. It’s one of the greatest joys in life to me. The Plantain Breakfast from Gloria’s Cuisine in Highland Park is exactly what I want to have for brunch. It consists of fried plantains, two fried eggs, black beans, chicken sausage, queso fresco and “special cream.” I bring every out-of-town guest here and they love it. Simple, local ingredients executed just right, and the service and atmosphere are cozy, no-frills, and perfect. — Sullivan
