The Angel

The Angel

Robert Sietsema's West Village

Where the legendary food critic frequents in his neighborhood + LINKS

Apr 25, 2026
∙ Paid

My Neighborhood is a Saturday column that serves as an alternative to Plugs. It’s where someone of note (with great taste) shares their five go-to spots in the neighborhood where they live or work. My Neighborhood is for paid subscribers of The Angel only; upgrade your subscription for all-access!

#4 is Robert Sietsema, a veteran New York City restaurant critic who has written for Lucky Peach, (old) Gourmet, the New York Times, and dozens of other outlets. Robert launched his food writing career in 1989, with a newsletter called Down the Hatch, focusing on affordable, under-the-radar restaurants serving international cuisines. In the 90s and aughts, he was a staff critic for the Village Voice, and then went on to work at Eater for another decade plus. He’s lived in the West Village for 35 years, as long as he’s been a critic, and, as you can imagine—given his rigorous approach to chronicling the city’s inexpensive eats across the five boroughs and New Jersey—his neighborhood go-tos are not the same as the West Village Girls. I’ve been a reader of Robert’s since I was a teen growing up in the Village, obsessed with restaurants and voraciously reading local food writers. It’s an honor to have him on today. Here he is with his five go-to West Village spots.


Panino Giusto

With its tidal wave of tourists and regular visitors, little in the West Village can remain secret for long, but this shoebox-sized coffee shop remains the closest thing we have. A wooden communal table hosts authors, small tables are favorites of dating couples and married old-timers, and outdoor seating is for transients and sun worshippers. Panini that utilize the usual Italian ingredients are pressed and delicious, while the coffee is just so-so – but nobody cares.

inside Panino Giusto
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